the engine installation and before the new wiring begins, there
several spots that are just impossible to paint with the engine
in the car and
we are going to take care of those before anything else gets in
tops of the hood hinges and the lower areas on both inner fender
You can see
where Alan from A&E couldn't reach with the spray gun over near
each side of the transmission bell housing and up at the front
of steering rack area.
that's done and the wiring harnesses for the Masters Headlamp
Kit and the Spal Electric Fan Kit can be installed and run with
Master's kit has wires for each headlamp, both high and low
separate relays for high and low and individual fuses for each
filament of each bulb.
A nice neat
and simple installation. This definitely made a difference
TRF Halogen PL700
headlamps. The Spal Fan Relay and harness sits next door.
Erik made a
nice neat new harness to go to the lamps and fan up front.
wires were run back through the firewall and out the other side
to feed directly from the connector that sits above the starter
built into the
positive battery cable. I always wondered what those spare
terminals were for.
blue/white and blue/red wires feed the headlamp high and low
Good clean solid ground connections are very important.
There are several up front.
connectors that are soldered, but easy to troubleshoot in the
This is all
of the new wiring run across the front of the car prior to the
shroud going on.
It was time
to replace my trusty six (6) year old battery with more modern
Note the heavy 10 gauge Yellow wire left of the battery?
That's one of the feed wires
that will supply power to either the headlamp relay or the
cooling fan relay package.
liked the leak proof design and available custom chrome hold
harness has all new connectors soldered on to insure bright
the buckets and gaskets as well. See that little devil
hiding in the corner?
That's the only rust that I've ever found in the body and thank
goodness it was easy to fix.
this?? That's no engine picture??
True, but while there was room and Erik was waiting for the
engine from Mason's,
we decided that now would be the time for new steering shaft
bushings in the column.
best time to work in here for these kinds of jobs.
was room and the interior was apart, we replaced the
heater core hoses, clamps and this fitting and the seals that
fit on the firewall.
Yes, I did clean the touch up paint off of everything that got
sprayed by accident.
is finally back home! This time for good.
all over New England for these black oxide counter sunk cap
When I was sure that I couldn't get them, Erik found them and
cut them down to size.
starting to look like a complete car again. Well, almost
like a complete car....
Distributors built this custom curved distributor to the
new engine specs.
Lipp shaft bushings and newly powder coated throttle pedal is
note VERY IMPORTANT new oil pressure hose to gauge installed.
stainless steel line from the water pump to the heater hoses is
now in place.
completed column and steering shaft is now back in place and
take the play out of the top of the column.
All assembled, but ready to
be cleaned and painted down there.
The newly rebuilt damper and
the fane eliminator kit installed.
Now I'll be able to see the
timing degree marks when the light hits the white paint.
These lock nuts and Lock-Tite
are very important on the water pump mounting.
The five indentations on the
top left of the water pump pulley are for perfect balancing.
Before this goes back in,
we're checking for junk in the bowls and all float level
Everything was nice and clean
and the floats and needles are fine,
so new gaskets were installed and this unit is ready to be
installed on the engine.
Yes, the black overspray from
the wheel well painting last fall was washed off too!
The carbs always look better
when they are right side up.
The front hose to the water pump is in place and we're getting
ready for the others soon.
These can be a little tricky,
but Erik did a great job routing them to prevent any chaffing.
A better look at the
stainless heater hoses and emission hoses all in place.
Those yellow wires at the
rear are for the fan and headlamps and will disappear soon.
New fuel lines connected,
belt is on, chassis paint touched up, getting closer every hour.
Erik was happy to see that it
was finally starting to look like it would one day leave his
OK, Erik, back to work.
Time to test fit
This is actually the brass
drain petcock for the side of the TR6 block, available from TRF.
Not too bad. It looks
like it will line up perfectly, just like Art said it would.
The brackets fit OK on this
side with no modifications.
This side needed the top stud
cut shorter to allow the canister to fit properly.
Everything else lines up and
the attaching brackets fit perfectly.
Keep in mind that this is an
ALUMINUM radiator and we used rubber insulators.
The (3) piece GoodParts
stainless radiator shroud kit is in place.
Just about ready for the hood
The TR6 decal was a gift from
my friend Tyler in California.
His beautiful blue TR6 graces
the cover of the new Moss catalog
The big moment and crucial
cam break in period. After priming the oil pump
and the fuel pump, the engine started right up. We went
right to 2,500 RPM
as soon as we verified that we had great (100LB psi) oil
pressure at start up.
This was the initial reading
after start up, while still on choke. Not too rich for
It's now warmed up and on
about the 8th minute of the cam break in run. Everything
sounds just great, there is no smoke, no oil or water leaks and
this will continue for
a total of 20 minutes at 2,500 RPM before shut down and a
complete oil drain down.
We drained the oil while hot,
pulled the filter and left everything drain overnight.
New oil and filter and time
for a test drive and tuning.
That all worked out well and
here it is, all cleaned up and ready to go.
I've taken shots from every
angle to show Erik's great work and attention to detail.
The hoses, radiator and
shroud get the most questions at shows this year.
I'm very happy with the
performance of the engine and the cooling system.
Now that the final detailing
is done, it's time to drive it a bit before the next project.
The new Fiesta alternator
cleaned up well with some Mothers Metal Polish.
I did replace the valve cover
and added the silicone gasket after this was taken.
Final shot, see you down the
40 Industrial Road
Cranston RI 02920