what Allan and his crew did and how he got there is below.
remove all damaged sheet metal and get frame checked out
to do something with those stupid drains to nowhere.
Luckily, just a bunch of
dirt, but no rust on either side. The new drains will exit
via the forward filler panels shown below with the weather strip
Next the front panel will be
removed, after all of the welds are removed by grinding.
These were actually welded in
very nicely at the factory.
was lucky and had no rust in the usual spots that are vulnerable.
the front panel is off, it's time for inner panel alignment and
of many panel fittings and frame checkings before any actual
welding takes place..
This is a
very tedious process and must be done to get the proper panel
All of the
sheet metal came from The Roadster Factory and was British
quality. The hood was the last of the actual OEM hoods
that Charles had left on stock.
are back off after a lot of alignment and several things have
Everything is fit properly and the drain areas on both inner
fenders have been
cleaned completely and covered with two coats of POR15 Rust
Inhibitor for protection.
entire car is being painted, now was the time to get rid of 34
years of tiny
dings and dents that are very irritating to look at when waxing
includes the close encounter that the deck lid had with a rake
about five years ago.
had to be prepped inside and out for paint since no insulation
hides any panels.
and ready to be fit to the fenders one last time before
time to get the rest of the paint down and prepped for color
panel is painted inside and out and clear coated on the
inside prior to final fitting and welding to the inner panels.
is completed, all of the wiring can be reinstalled and covered
was checked before the welding was done .
Here you can see that only the top of the fender is bolted in,
hence the gap at the bottom.
the front panel is done and priming and prep of those areas is
welding, Allan used seam sealer in every welded area, which will
and color coated, followed by a clear coat to match the under
hood paint from last year.
This is a
must for a lasting job and no rust areas in the future.
time, back on with the fenders and the bumper, but it's coming
off prior to color coating.
hood hinges are bolted in to insure proper fit and alignment.
panel guys fit the front, the paint team got the rear end ready
for color coating.
fenders are bolted completely down, aligned and ready for paint.
coating followed by clear and all of the welded areas are sealed
attention to detail by A&E really makes a difference. You
can't see a lot of this
when the car is all back together, but it's great to know that
it's fixed this well underneath.
has been color coated and clear coated on the inside only.
final fender adjustments will be made.
when the hood is easiest to align properly. The grille is
out of the car and access is easy.
color match and everything back together as it should be.
of these areas had to be removed to get the door handles and
weather strips off.
caused a lot of discussion on BCF & 6-Pack Forums, but after
painting, most admit they look great.
paint prep team begins the final wet sanding with 1800 paper to
get ready for color coating.
windshield out, now was the time to replace my original dash
be real trouble spots for rust and holes. I got lucky
again and no issues here either.
water sanding mix makes everything very smooth after cleanup.
Master Jorge works his magic with the base color coating.
everything and taped it down to the floor to prevent over spray
getting inside the hood and on the painted and powder coated
good between coats and sandings.
sealed the each of panels with hidden foam to prevent buildup
clear coats have been applied. That makes the base coat
really pop out at you.
This was a
great painting performance by Jorge.
remains is another hand sanding and then buffing.
the only way to never have to worry about matching my old paint.
after the wet sanding with 1800 and buffing.
Not a spec
of dust in the paint or run anywhere.
effort put into the panel fitting really shows up.
going to look great with the chrome and decals back on.
dash pad, all ready to be glued down in front prior to the
windshield frame installation.
that's finally done. It looks much better then the
original and the paint is good underneath.
This is the
drain from a 65-66 Mustang rear quarter panel that Allan
installed inside the inner fender panel.
is looking up inside the right front fender, towards the door,
with the right front wheel removed for access. The hose
runs from the original drain,
shown in the earlier photos with the fenders off to here.
No more water just left in the panel.
tricky, but using a piece of 3/4" masking tape parallel to the
lamp makes alignment easy.
new Konig Rewinds, in a 16" X 7" with new Falken tires back in
We put them on the night the bumpers and moldings went back on.
matches and fits well, but we have to spray inside the hood side
next spring. That's a minor issue that was an oversight
along the way.
wait to get it home for a good cleanup and dust removal.
As great as these guys
are about protecting the car, it's inevitable that it will be
somewhere, so no big deal.
The tape on
the door shows where the new mirrors will bottom out.
rechromed original bumper and a new spoiler all set to go.
did I set the headlamp trim rings down???
This is the
new look of the mirrors. What difference in being
able to see behind me.
that they compliment the looks of the TR6 and are soooo easy to
glass keeps the SUV and Beemer high beams out of your eyes.
I found two
of the original cast light blue emblems on eBay about three
to have a rear view mirror that works on this side too.
how the matched set looks on the car.
They make a
huge difference in visibility and look good too.
up and in the sun before the big rain storm hit.
outside looks more like the original Mimosa than under the shop
alignment and fit is great.
Nice to get
the dust off of the rear window and dress the top with cleaner
look, until May when the top comes back down again for the
Allan and his crew, cleanup under here was relatively easy.
have a few more stainless steel bolts to replace under here.
fine job by Allan and his guys at: