This is switch before disassembly and cleaning.
remove everything, do yourself a favor and either measure or
count the threads that are up to the plate. This will
insure the proper fit back
in the dash panel and how far out the shaft will protrude for
the adjuster knob.
little rivets have to be removed to allow the back to come off.
clamped it securely in my vise and used the Dremel with a
grinder to knock them off.
with the Dremel, or you could file them if you're really
it is. Looks like the inside of an Alien spacecraft.
Ohm resistance is all that you have here on the contact surface
of the rear plate.
and connector assembly slides right out and we can now clean up
34 years of accumulated electrical corrosion, which really isn't
all that bad, but it's
enough, when coupled with dirty connectors, burned bulbs and
paint to really dim down what once were fairly bright instrument
need a good cleaning with Never Dull and they'll look like new.
realize how darkened everything was until I cleaned it all with
Never Dull and watched the black corrosion appear on the wadding.
a lot better and should provide a much better path for the
current to travel on.
slipped the connector and contact plate back into place, added a
tiny dab of Mobil
Synthetic Grease to the end of the shaft and placed the rear
cover back on.
It actually snaps into place rather nicely. Then I lightly
clamped them down and
mixed some JB Weld up to bond the housing and cover back
doesn't look too bad and if I get ambitious, I might neaten it
up a little more.
paint on the front bracket and the proper amount of
threads counted to insure a good mounting and it's back in place.
Metal Polish worked well cleaning up the zinc case assembly.
is ready, the dash panel and all new pads are here and all
need to do is finish the gauges and I can get one of the
last major projects completed.