in mind, there are many ways to go about doing this job and this
to say that there aren't better methods to tackle this problem.
This is also to show
what can be done when the engine is out of the car and at a
quality machinists shop.
Viewers are warned that if they attempt any mechanical repairs or
or follow procedures referred to here, they do so at their own risk, and
no liability will
attach to either myself, Mason's Racing Engines or Scott Helms.****
the washers supplied by Scott and what is available below them from other
Please note: These are SOLID Bronze Washers, not steel
with a thin plating on top. ***
normal circumstances, you would order the required thickness
Scott at CTW
and they would arrive in two halves, ready to fit to your engine.
what I wanted to do to Scott and he agreed to sell me the
blank, prior to cutting it in half, which Bob would do after
some additional work.
These are solid Bronze alloy and are thicker than the coated
samples shown below.
the washers supplied by the major other
If you look closely, you can see the two colors of the metal as
the toplayer on
either side is plated. The side to block doesn't
really need it since it won't move.
not bad parts, but not what I wanted to do in my situation.
of washer has and will continue to reliably repair thousands of
Remember, my engine was completely apart and at a racing engine shop, where
nearly anything that you can imagine
can be fabricated or machined.
style are a drop in solution, that if
used properly will last a long time.
the Triumph engine design and evaluated the entire engine before
making any decision to arbitrarily cut steel from a cast block.
These types of decisions
are not made lightly. After
measuring the new bronze washers and calculating the
material that we wanted to remove from the washer mating surface on
the machining began.
below are the locations for the thrust washers from the factory.
As I said
earlier, there are several ways to do this and for many reasons
we chose to keep the
original design, but to rely on a better designed washer
material and surface.
amount of material was removed from the outside (above) and the
of the engine block bearing surface. This was several
.000" and will vary from block to block.
As you can
see, the original design was not impacted at all by this machine
The thicker new washers fit in here tightly and have no chance
choice is made, the ideal time is when the line boring of the
block takes place.
originally thought that I would end up with a spare set of
washers by cutting the
full circles in half, but it doesn't quite work out that way.
The side with the "X" is
actually a slight bit longer than the other and this will allow
the custom fitting to the
block as assembly begins. Please note the two slots in the
washer face on one side only.
These slots are for oil flow and must face the crankshaft side.
Also the chamfer that is
located on the inner radius, must match that of the crankshaft
journal to throw transition
radius. This is NOT an area that you would want any sharp
This is the
back side of each washerg that is located opposite of the
bronze, which I feel is the only way to go with these.
This is the
transition or inside corner radius that must be matched on the
1,000 miles great oil pressure and not any movement in the damper
the clutch is engaged. And adding the 9 lb. Fidanza
Aluminum Flywheel will help
extend the life of these washers a lot in comparison to the
heavy steel original unit.
fine job by Bob Mason of
53 Hartford Avenue
North Scituate, RI 02857
Toll Free 888-235-1622