Throttle Pedal Rebuild
March 19, 2017


About our TR6
Six Tech Manuals
1980 TR8
5 Vane Water Pump
Convertible Top 2013
Exhaust Manifold 2013
Voltage Stabilizer 2012
Space Saver Spare
Trafficator 2012
Parts Sale 2011
BobbyD Fender Blanket
Fuel Pump 2011
Brake Adjusters 2011
Heater Valve 2011
Console 2010
Dyno Day 2010
95 Amp Alternator
CV Axles T/A Repair
Fuse Panel Conversion
Miata Seat Conversion
Hardtop Restoration
Hardtop Carrier
Luggage Rack
Gauge Calibration
Gauge Refurbishing
NET DOT 2009
Repainting 2008
Dash Replacement
Machining Block 2008
Machining Head 2008
Cam Bearings 2008
Thrust Washers 2008
Engine Assembly 2008
Engine Installation 2008
Silicone Cover Gasket
Fuel Pump Rebuild
Damper Rebuild
Throttle Pedal Rebuild
Ratco Cable Linkage
Air/Fuel Ratio Meter
PDWA Rebuild
Rheostat Rebuild
Alternator Swap
Frame Parts & Coating
Frame Parts Assembly
Frame Before Stripping
Frame Strip & POR15
Brake Restoration
Cylinder Head Swap
Triple Carb Rebuild
Triple Carb Installation
Roadster Factory Tour
Spring 2007
Dyno Day 2007
Engine Restoration
Paint Detailing
Glass Replacement
Bumper Rechroming
Distributor Overhaul
Clutch Replacement
Carpet Replacement
Differential Overhaul
Heater Overhaul
Past Improvements


My gas pedal was rather crappy looking and it needed repainted
at the very least.  It was getting rusty and I have a friend who offered to
bead blast the assembly and then powder coat everything, so I took him up on it.

About that time, my friend Arthur Lipp sent me a set of new throttle
shaft bushings for the firewall, since my engine was out of the car and the shaft was
getting powder coated.  This is the perfect time to install these, but they can be done
rather quickly, even with the engine in the car and everything still normally in tact.

Art also supplied my with the Wizard Aluminum Radiator and
 16" Spal Fan assembly that does a great job of cooling the car on even the hottest days.

**** Viewers are warned that if they attempt any mechanical repairs 
or modifications, or follow procedures referred to here, they do so at
 their own risk, and no liability will attach to either myself, Ratco or TR****

There are no pictures of the original pedal, but the paint was worn
off and it was rusted from years of driving that simply took it's toll.

  The shaft showing in the engine compartment looked rusty as well.

So here we are back from the powder coating and they came out great.

They really did a nice job and this should last longer than the original.

For anyone interested, this color is officially called "Black Chrome"
and is readily available in standard form from any of the major powder suppliers.

If I had known about this earlier, my chassis parts would be in this color.

If you paint or powder coat this part, it's very important to not get too much
down in the area that goes over the splines on the end of the pedal shaft..

This area should not have heavy paint or powder coat either.  I cleaned the
 splines and sprayed a very light coat of clear enamel on to prevent rusting.


These are two collars that I picked up at a local MSC before Art sent me his new kit.
I did get the bolt/nut/washer coated as well because these tend to get rusty quickly.

The yellow collars are supplied by Art and are made from aluminum.  They are
 pre-drilled and fit with the set screws.  I just had them powder coated them in yellow.

So Art's kit will be the two (2) aluminum collars, the two (2) different nylon
sleeves, the nylon flat washer and the cotter pin for the end of the shaft.

While the MSC collars are nice, they don't quite fit over the powder coated shaft,
so it's a good thing that Art came along with these aluminum collars..

This shows the collar in place and how it holds the longer of the two nylon bushings
in place.  The trick here is to put the shaft in place with the bushing loose and
facing towards the drivers feet.  A deep well socket over the shaft and behind
the flange of the bushing allows it to be tapped into place easily for a tight fit.

The long length of the shaft makes for a really tight fit inside the cockpit if you
drive the bushing into the firewall first.  There isn't room for the proper angle
to get the shaft up into position and through the bushing with it in the firewall.

It's hard to see with all of my plumbing, but the shaft lever and locking
nut are visible below the Ratco bracket to the left of the heater hoses.

By nature of the design, these hold the flange of the right side shorter bushing
in place.  The flat washer and cotter pin are on the passenger inside, up behind
the rear of the glove box.  The carpet will need to be moved to see them clearly.

The kit supplied by Arthur saves running around to get matching parts that
will fit the holes in the firewall on each side and fit over the pedal shaft snugly.

This modification, along with the Ratco Linkage Kit, will take all of the sloppy
movement out of the TR6 throttle mechanism at once and for a long time ahead.

I have an installation page for the Ratco kit on my site below and even though
it depicts the installation for my triple carbs, Tony designed the kit for the stock twins.

There have been many attempts to replace the miserable factory style bushings
that are so hard to install and Art is the first to come up with a kit with everything.

Another similar set of instructions with the engine out and good pictures from
Bob Danielson (aka BobbyD) and his great TR6 web site  -  Art Lipp Throttle Bushing Installation

My final resolution for binding linkages  - Ratco Throttle Linkage installation

Tony's on line store (Ratco) - Roadtronics Automotive Technology Company, Inc.

Art Lipp's contact  - Art Lipp 2017

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This site was last updated 03/19/17