5 Vane Water Pump
March 19, 2017


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Like many, you will sooner or later be facing a leaking water pump.  Generally the seal leaks on the shaft and it will
require a rebuilding or replacement unit.  After reading many posts on the 6-Pack Forums about the quality
of replacement pumps, I opted to go with Flying Dutchman Rebuilders for a rebuild of my existing pump.

Toll free (U.S. and Canada) 1-888-595-1110

**** Viewers are warned that if they attempt any mechanical repairs or modifications,
or follow procedures referred to here, they do so at their own risk, and no liability will attach to me or Flying Dutchman.****

This is bottom view of the old water pump and you can see the leaking that was subtle, but annoying, as it ran down the front
of the engine and then along the sides of the oil pan.  It looked liked some kind of an oil leak, but it was indeed coolant.

I sent the pump back for an upgraded impeller, as well as a later style seal and bearing made domestically.

Wade bead blasted my old housing and pulley and sent it back all primed and ready for paint.  Pretty quick turn around on this too!

Another view of the upgraded impeller with additional vanes and a more aggressive design for better circulation.

While my original pump was out for rebuild, I installed a NOS pump that I picked up on eBay last fall.

It lasted just about 350 miles before the same seal leak started.  NOS parts may be good that don't have seals,
but after 40 years of sitting on a shelf, it's not what you want to count on for a long trip or to risk losing an engine over.

Time for a good coat of Hylomar on both sides of the gaskets.

Some prep on the housing top and front.  I always pull the thermostat in order to fill the block and make sure the
pump is immersed in coolant when it begins to spin.  It stays cool and gets it's lube broken in after about 3 minutes.

This is where I fill from after the pump is installed.  The radiator will fill equally with this level until you are ready to install the stat.

This is not a difficult job, but it is tedious to keep everything neat when draining down the radiator, and then there is the
issue of getting the three lock washers and nuts on the studs, with the little bit of clearance between the pulley back side.

I start mine on this side and get it on about two full turns, then I move to the opposite side and do the bottom stud last.

I have found that if you use the pulley to hold pressure against a nut that is sitting against a stud, you can thread it easily.

All done and sealed up after about 3 minutes at idle.  Don't worry about a slight leak in the beginning. 

Just let the engine idle for a few minutes to warm up and it will be fine.

All warmed up and ready for a nice back roads spin through the woods.


74TR6.com 2017

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This site was last updated 03/19/17