| 
				 
				 
                This is bottom view of the 
                old water pump and you can see the leaking that was subtle, but 
                annoying, as it ran down the front 
                of the engine and then along the sides of the oil pan.  It 
                looked liked some kind of an oil leak, but it was indeed 
                coolant. 
                
				.JPG)  
                
				I sent the pump back for an 
                upgraded impeller, as well as a later style seal and bearing 
                made domestically. 
                
				Wade bead blasted my old 
                housing and pulley and sent it back all primed and ready for 
                paint.  Pretty quick turn around on this too! 
                
				.JPG)  
                
				Another view of the upgraded 
                impeller with additional vanes and a more aggressive design for 
                better circulation. 
                
				.JPG)  
                
				While my original pump was 
                out for rebuild, I installed a NOS pump that I picked up on eBay 
                last fall. 
                
				It lasted just about 350 
                miles before the same seal leak started.  NOS parts may be 
                good that don't have seals,  
                but after 40 years of sitting on a shelf, it's not what you want 
                to count on for a long trip or to risk losing an engine over. 
                
				.JPG)  
                
				Time for a good coat of 
                Hylomar on both sides of the gaskets. 
                
				.JPG)  
                
				Some prep on the housing top 
                and front.  I always pull the thermostat in order to fill 
                the block and make sure the 
                pump is immersed in coolant when it begins to spin.  It 
                stays cool and gets it's lube broken in after about 3 minutes. 
                
				.JPG)  
                
                .JPG)  
                This is 
                where I fill from after the pump is installed.  The 
                radiator will fill equally with this level until you are ready 
                to install the stat. 
                
                .JPG)  
                This is not 
                a difficult job, but it is tedious to keep everything neat when 
                draining down the radiator, and then there is the 
                issue of getting the three lock washers and nuts on the studs, 
                with the little bit of clearance between the pulley back side. 
                I start 
                mine on this side and get it on about two full turns, then I 
                move to the opposite side and do the bottom stud last. 
                I have 
                found that if you use the pulley to hold pressure against a nut 
                that is sitting against a stud, you can thread it easily. 
                
                .JPG)  
                All done 
                and sealed up after about 3 minutes at idle.  Don't worry 
                about a slight leak in the beginning.   
                Just let 
                the engine idle for a few minutes to warm up and it will be 
                fine. 
                
                .JPG)  
                All warmed 
                up and ready for a nice back roads spin through the woods. 
				   
				 |