shows the modified mechanical linkage on the new triple carbs.
This shows the
shortened linkage that comes with the PalTech
package. While it works OK, it leaves a bit to be desired in
Also, to get it to work on my car, it had to be very close to the
instructions, I made a line in line with the pedal lever and
marked the two 5/16" holes in the bracket. That attach
under the passenger side with lock washers and nuts, but this
time for final lock downs on anything.
haven't replaced your pedal shaft bushings yet, now is the time.
two bolts just holding the bracket in place, I began to
check the alignment of the bracket and the rear carb.
that this was going along too well. Looks like these may
with the bracket and onto the bench for a tracing to see the
starting and final positions. After talking to Tony, I
found the original
bends are designed to fit a stock twin carb TR6 perfectly.
the carb bracket. It attaches to the two bolts under the
Yes, the ones that are a pain to get at, which is why the old
under the carbs. It catches falling parts rather nicely.
so that you're not
going under the car with a magnet or fishing parts out of the
A short 1/2" ratcheting box wrench helps on this installation.
made to bracket, but just not quite enough.
the final position needed for everything to clear. The
shims protect the powder coat finish from the jaws of the vise.
a lot better. Now we're getting somewhere.
look it, but this is a straight shot down the line,
from the pedal lever, to the carb bracket.
pedal lever bracket can be bolted in place.
This is the
cable kit that Ratco supplies with it's very nice brackets.
Lokar's are proven products and available at most good speed
Out of the
package and ready to take apart.
A close up
of both ends of the cable and the Allen wrench used to
lock down the stainless braided inner cable.
This is how
far the cable fits into the end unit, but it's not the proper
length at this point in time.
housing, with it's ferrule, the carb bracket ends and the
I installed this end first, to get the cable measurement going
the instructions told me to. I'm not smart, I just read
the instructions first.
on wide open throttle, so that end and the bending is OK.
This is the tiny clip that goes on the pin that fits through the
If you look closely, you can see it on the inside, but not on
outside of the pin on the picture above.
bracket and cable ready to be measured. The instructions
call for a lazy bend and this is just about right, but not
Blue painters tape marks the ideal cut location and the lazy
bend will follow.
what is referred to in the instructions as the ferrule.
It must stay behind the cut line, towards the pedal shaft end of
the half way position before mounting in carb bracket.
finger tight on bracket and cable length marked for cutting.
The tool of
the trade. The high speed Dremel and cutting wheels do
a nice job on the stainless steel outer housing.
mine tightly with electrical tape and held it with the wooden
shims just tight enough not to crush the housing.
All cut off
and ready to have the tape removed. The ferrule is to the
left of the cut and will move forward after the tape comes off.
and after sizes of the cutter after one pass through the cable.
Tough stuff to cut, burr free. the ferrule is now at the
I decided to secure mine with JB Weld, but only after I was sure
measurements and trial runs of the cable fit.
I used JB Weld on the connection of the cable to the ferrule and
set overnight, then did the same to the ferrule inside the jamb
assembly, ready to be installed.
All we need now is the inner
cable to be installed, measured and cut.
I measured by lining it up to the bell crank three times, then I added
the extra inch and cut it off with the best pair of side cutters
that I own.
Stainless steel woven cable is very durable and very hard to cut
if one is using dull cutters and it will make a mess of the
bell crank is now on the center carb and awaits the arrival of
shot view down from the bell crank to the empty housing.
Perfectly aligned and ready for the inner cable to be
A few drops of 3 in 1 oil doesn't hurt when you assemble this.
Add from both ends and work the cable back and forth in
housing before connecting to the bell crank.
I fed the
inner down through the housing and attached the pin to the pedal
lever end. An additional inch is to be added on the cable length
after the hex
screw to allow for adjustment. The jamb nut assembly is
and ready to roll. I now have a very smooth linkage and
wide open throttle when pushed to the floor.
couplers are no longer on the car. As you can see the
couplers are now on.