Ratco Cable Linkage
March 19, 2017

 

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The Triple ZS installation is done and I felt that the best way to improve a
good thing, was to install the Ratco Stainless Steel Cable Throttle Linkage.
Due to the fact that is is a throttle installation, I claim no association with
Ratco, Inc. other than to have Tony's permission to link to his site on this
page.  I also accept no responsibility for any errors made or issues that
may arise from not following the printed instructions that come with the kit.
This is simply part of a continuing history of modifications made to my
car.   The link is: Roadtronics Automotive Technology Company, Inc.

**** Viewers are warned that if they attempt any mechanical repairs or modifications,
or follow procedures referred to here, they do so at their own risk, and no liability will
attach to either myself or Ratco, Inc.****

This shots shows the modified mechanical linkage on the new triple carbs.

This shows the shortened linkage that comes with the PalTech
package.  While it works OK, it leaves a bit to be desired in smoothness.
Also, to get it to work on my car, it had to be very close to the heater hose.

Per the instructions, I made a line in line with the pedal lever and
marked the two 5/16" holes in the bracket.  That attach easily
under the passenger side with lock washers and nuts, but this isn't the
time for final lock downs on anything.

If you haven't replaced your pedal shaft bushings yet, now is the time.

With the two bolts just holding the bracket in place, I began to
check the alignment of the bracket and the rear carb.

I thought that this was going along too well.  Looks like these may hit.

Back off with the bracket and onto the bench for a tracing to see the
starting and final positions.  After talking to Tony, I found the original
bends are designed to fit a stock twin carb TR6 perfectly.

This is the carb bracket.  It attaches to the two bolts under the rear carb. 
Yes, the ones that are a pain to get at, which is why the old cloth is
under the carbs.  It catches falling parts rather nicely. so that you're not
going under the car with a magnet or fishing parts out of the frame.
A short 1/2" ratcheting box wrench helps on this installation.

First bends made to bracket, but just not quite enough.

This was the final position needed for everything to clear.  The wooden
shims protect the powder coat finish from the jaws of the vise.

That looks a lot better.  Now we're getting somewhere.

It doesn't look it, but this is a straight shot down the line,
from the pedal lever, to the carb bracket.

Now the pedal lever bracket can be bolted in place.

This is the cable kit that Ratco supplies with it's very nice brackets.
Lokar's are proven products and available at most good speed shops.

Out of the package and ready to take apart.

A close up of both ends of the cable and the Allen wrench used to
lock down the stainless braided inner cable.

This is how far the cable fits into the end unit, but it's not the proper
length at this point in time.

The cable housing, with it's ferrule, the carb bracket ends and the bellcrank.



I installed this end first, to get the cable measurement going and because
the instructions told me to.  I'm not smart, I just read the instructions first.

All clear on wide open throttle, so that end and the bending is OK.



This is the tiny clip that goes on the pin that fits through the linkage.
If you look closely, you can see it on the inside, but not on the
outside of the pin on the picture above.

The carb bracket and cable ready to be measured.  The instructions
call for a lazy bend and this is just about right, but not quite.



Blue painters tape marks the ideal cut location and the lazy bend will follow.

This is what is referred to in the instructions as the ferrule.
It must stay behind the cut line, towards the pedal shaft end of the cable.

I marked the half way position before mounting in carb bracket.

Mounted finger tight on bracket and cable length marked for cutting.

The tool of the trade.  The high speed Dremel and cutting wheels do
a nice job on the stainless steel outer housing.

I taped mine tightly with electrical tape and held it with the wooden
shims just tight enough not to crush the housing.

All cut off and ready to have the tape removed.  The ferrule is to the
left of the cut and will move forward after the tape comes off.

The before and after sizes of the cutter after one pass through the cable.
Tough stuff to cut, burr free.  the ferrule is now at the end. 
I decided to secure mine with JB Weld, but only after I was sure of my
measurements and trial runs of the cable fit.



I used JB Weld on the connection of the cable to the ferrule and let it
set overnight, then did the same to the ferrule inside the jamb nut assembly.

Final assembly, ready to be installed.

All we need now is the inner cable to be installed, measured and cut.
 I measured by lining it up to the bell crank three times, then I added
the extra inch and cut it off with the best pair of side cutters that I own.
Stainless steel woven cable is very durable and very hard to cut cleanly
if one is using dull cutters and it will make a mess of the cable end.

The bell crank is now on the center carb and awaits the arrival of the cable.

A straight shot view down from the bell crank to the empty housing.
Perfectly aligned and ready for the inner cable to be installed.
A few drops of 3 in 1 oil doesn't hurt when you assemble this. 
Add from  both ends and work the cable back and forth in the
housing before  connecting to the bell crank.

I fed the inner down through the housing and attached the pin to the pedal
lever end.  An additional inch is to be added on the cable length after the hex
screw to allow for adjustment.  The jamb nut assembly is also adjustable.

All done and ready to roll.  I now have a very smooth linkage and
wide open throttle when pushed to the floor. 

The solid couplers are no longer on the car.  As you can see the folded couplers are now on. 

 

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This site was last updated 03/19/17