Exhaust Manifold 2013
April 02, 2017
 

 

Home
About our TR6
Six Tech Manuals
1980 TR8
5 Vane Water Pump
Convertible Top 2013
Exhaust Manifold 2013
Voltage Stabilizer 2012
Space Saver Spare
Trafficator 2012
Parts Sale 2011
BobbyD Fender Blanket
Fuel Pump 2011
Brake Adjusters 2011
Heater Valve 2011
Console 2010
Dyno Day 2010
95 Amp Alternator
CV Axles T/A Repair
Fuse Panel Conversion
Miata Seat Conversion
Hardtop Restoration
Hardtop Carrier
Luggage Rack
Gauge Calibration
Gauge Refurbishing
NET DOT 2009
Repainting 2008
Dash Replacement
Machining Block 2008
Machining Head 2008
Cam Bearings 2008
Thrust Washers 2008
Engine Assembly 2008
Engine Installation 2008
Silicone Cover Gasket
Fuel Pump Rebuild
Damper Rebuild
Throttle Pedal Rebuild
Ratco Cable Linkage
Air/Fuel Ratio Meter
PDWA Rebuild
Rheostat Rebuild
Alternator Swap
Frame Parts & Coating
Frame Parts Assembly
Frame Before Stripping
Frame Strip & POR15
Brake Restoration
Cylinder Head Swap
Triple Carb Rebuild
Triple Carb Installation
Roadster Factory Tour
Spring 2007
Dyno Day 2007
Engine Restoration
Paint Detailing
Glass Replacement
Bumper Rechroming
Distributor Overhaul
Distributor-Adjustable
Clutch Replacement
Carpet Replacement
Differential Overhaul
Heater Overhaul
Past Improvements
Favorites

 


I decided to purchase a used late model exhaust manifold to add to my spares collection and one thing led to another
and I decided to make it a direct replacement for my header, in the event that I ever decide to remove it.  This one was
really rusted, but flat and straight, so I decided to do a full restoration, including ceramic chrome coating and an O2 Sensor bung.

**** Viewers are warned that if they attempt any mechanical repairs or modifications,
or follow procedures referred to here, they do so at their own risk, and no liability will attach to me.****

This is the condition of the manifold as it arrived from the eBay seller.  Not that bad, but the rust
came off ever time that I touched it or set it down to work on it, so I took it for an initial sandblasting. 

 

This is the manifold after a quick $30 blasting at a shop in CT.  Not required, but I hate making a mess while I work. 
Time to start knocking out the emission tubes, as they won't be needed for my purposes.  They usually drive right out.

(it was really rust free, but I let it sit in the open air for three weeks before I got around to working on it)

This is the flange and and the old gasket , which the sand blaster did a number on.

The thread size for the injector rail plugs is 1/2" X 20.  I'm using socket set screws to fill the holes.

I wanted to re-tap all of the threaded areas to make sure there was no problem before the final blast and ceramic coating.

I deal with the flange studs later, as two were frozen in and needed heat to get them out when it went for the milling work.

These actually thread very easily, despite how they look.

This wonderful milling machine is going to do some nice work to allow an oxygen sensor to go between the two side of the manifold.

This is part of the equipment at the new shop of Her Majesty's Service, in Cranston, RI.  Erik Nygaard is the owner and a great friend.

This shows the milling of the manifold upper flange surface as well as the hole for the O2 sensor bung.

The bung is now set in place and ready to be brazed in.

All set into place and test fit to insure the threads are all OK.

This is what the tip of the sensor looks like between the left and right side of the manifold for the stock twin exhaust pipes.

I had another bead blast done, because I thought that would be good for the coating.  For powder coating it is fine,
but for ceramic chrome coating, there is a steel media used that actually cuts into the metal to give the ceramic a place to grip.

Here is another view, after the bead blasting, showing the nice through hole from the milling machine.

Just a side view for another perspective.

Now that the frozen studs are gone, I can now re-tap the threads in the stud holes in the flange.

These are 3/8" X 16 or 3/8 UNC.

Time to test fit the socket set screws from Fastenal.  These are black oxide and I may go to stainless or chrome, but they are fine for now.

Remember, these are 1/2" -20 thread X 1/2" length in Black Oxide.  Fastenal P/N (SKU) 1125702.

I also ordered the 1/2"-20 thread X 5/8" length in 18-8 Stainless Steel.  Fastenal P/N (SKU) 0171616. 

These will fill the threads completely to the top.

These socket screws are also 1/2" long, which fills the threads pretty well. 

Freshly back from HTC Racing / Disk Brakes R Us in Rockland, MA.  These guys do great work and also do all of the exhaust side pipes and headers
for factory Five Cobra kit cars.  They have the in house capability of doing the blasting, as well as the ceramic chrome and powder coating.

Another look down inside and they blasted the entire inside of the manifold for me, without my asking.  Very professional, indeed.

These are the studs and brass nuts, along with the steel exhaust pipe gasket from The Roadster Factory,
but I need to get some SS or Grade 8 lock washers to have a complete setup.

Nice and clean and a good deal of coating down in there.

This is the rear of the manifold as it sits on the car.  Erik's welding looks very strong and good now that the ceramic chrome is on.

The last view, all ready to go, with the socket screws in place and the studs and nuts on for storage.

The new stainless socket set screws arrived today from Fastenal.  Part # 0171616.

You can see the difference between the 1/2" and 5/8" lengths.

The 1/2" sit down in the threads and the 5/8" are a thread and a half above, which I prefer, along with them being stainless.

Six of one, half dozen of the other, I suppose.  They both will still block off the exhaust and that's what matters most.

The last of the lasts view, all ready to go with the new stainless 5/8" length socket set screws.

Thanks to Tom at HTC Racing / Disk Brakes R Us in Rockland, MA   (781) 447-6652

and

Erik at

40 Industrial Road
Cranston  RI 02920 
(401) 352-0888
hermajestysauto@gmail.com

 

74TR6.com © 2017

Home | About our TR6 | Six Tech Manuals | 1980 TR8 | 5 Vane Water Pump | Convertible Top 2013 | Exhaust Manifold 2013 | Voltage Stabilizer 2012 | Space Saver Spare | Trafficator 2012 | Parts Sale 2011 | BobbyD Fender Blanket | Fuel Pump 2011 | Brake Adjusters 2011 | Heater Valve 2011 | Console 2010 | Dyno Day 2010 | 95 Amp Alternator | CV Axles T/A Repair | Fuse Panel Conversion | Miata Seat Conversion | Hardtop Restoration | Hardtop Carrier | Luggage Rack | Gauge Calibration | Gauge Refurbishing | NET DOT 2009 | Repainting 2008 | Dash Replacement | Machining Block 2008 | Machining Head 2008 | Cam Bearings 2008 | Thrust Washers 2008 | Engine Assembly 2008 | Engine Installation 2008 | Silicone Cover Gasket | Fuel Pump Rebuild | Damper Rebuild | Throttle Pedal Rebuild | Ratco Cable Linkage | Air/Fuel Ratio Meter | PDWA Rebuild | Rheostat Rebuild | Alternator Swap | Frame Parts & Coating | Frame Parts Assembly | Frame Before Stripping | Frame Strip & POR15 | Brake Restoration | Cylinder Head Swap | Triple Carb Rebuild | Triple Carb Installation | Roadster Factory Tour | Spring 2007 | Dyno Day 2007 | Engine Restoration | Paint Detailing | Glass Replacement | Bumper Rechroming | Distributor Overhaul | Distributor-Adjustable | Clutch Replacement | Carpet Replacement | Differential Overhaul | Heater Overhaul | Past Improvements | Favorites

This site was last updated 04/02/17