This is the condition of the manifold as it arrived from the
eBay seller. Not that bad, but the rust
came off ever time that I touched it or set it down to work on
it, so I took it for an initial sandblasting.
This is the
manifold after a quick $30 blasting at a shop in CT. Not
required, but I hate making a mess while I work.
Time to start knocking out the emission tubes, as they won't be
needed for my purposes. They usually drive right out.
really rust free, but I let it sit in the open air for three
weeks before I got around to working on it)
This is the
flange and and the old gasket , which the sand blaster did a
size for the injector rail plugs is 1/2" X 20. I'm using
socket set screws to fill the holes.
I wanted to
re-tap all of the threaded areas to make sure there was no
problem before the final blast and ceramic coating.
I deal with
the flange studs later, as two were frozen in and needed heat to
get them out when it went for the milling work.
actually thread very easily, despite how they look.
This wonderful milling machine is
going to do some nice work to allow an oxygen sensor to go
between the two side of the manifold.
This is part of the equipment
at the new shop of
Her Majesty's Service, in Cranston, RI. Erik Nygaard
is the owner and a great friend.
This shows the milling of the
manifold upper flange surface as well as the hole for the O2
The bung is now set in place
and ready to be brazed in.
All set into place and test
fit to insure the threads are all OK.
This is what the tip of the
sensor looks like between the left and right side of the
manifold for the stock twin exhaust pipes.
I had another bead blast
done, because I thought that would be good for the coating.
For powder coating it is fine,
but for ceramic chrome coating, there is a steel media used that
actually cuts into the metal to give the ceramic a place to
Here is another view, after
the bead blasting, showing the nice through hole from the
Just a side view for another
Now that the frozen studs are
gone, I can now re-tap the threads in the stud holes in the
These are 3/8" X 16 or 3/8
test fit the socket set screws from Fastenal. These are
black oxide and I may go to stainless or chrome, but they are
fine for now.
these are 1/2" -20 thread X 1/2" length in Black Oxide. Fastenal
P/N (SKU) 1125702.
ordered the 1/2"-20 thread X 5/8" length in 18-8 Stainless
Steel. Fastenal P/N (SKU) 0171616.
fill the threads completely to the top.
These socket screws are also
1/2" long, which fills the threads pretty well.
Freshly back from
HTC Racing / Disk Brakes R
Us in Rockland, MA. These guys do great work and also do all
of the exhaust side pipes and headers
for factory Five Cobra kit cars. They have the in house
capability of doing the blasting, as well as the ceramic chrome and
Another look down inside and
they blasted the entire inside of the manifold for me, without my
asking. Very professional, indeed.
These are the studs and brass
nuts, along with the steel exhaust pipe gasket from The Roadster
but I need to get some SS or Grade 8 lock washers to have a
Nice and clean and a good
deal of coating down in there.
This is the rear of the
manifold as it sits on the car. Erik's welding looks very
strong and good now that the ceramic chrome is on.
The last view, all ready to
go, with the socket screws in place and the studs and nuts on
The new stainless socket set
screws arrived today from Fastenal. Part # 0171616.
You can see the difference
between the 1/2" and 5/8" lengths.
The 1/2" sit down in the
threads and the 5/8" are a thread and a half above, which I
prefer, along with them being stainless.
Six of one, half dozen of the
other, I suppose. They both will still block off the
exhaust and that's what matters most.
The last of the lasts view,
all ready to go with the new stainless 5/8" length socket set
Thanks to Tom at
HTC Racing / Disk Brakes R
Rockland, MA (781) 447-6652
40 Industrial Road
Cranston RI 02920